Nassau Essentials

A laidback tropical island with copious amounts of candy-pink colonial (and sometimes funky) charm, Nassau is the capital of the Commonwealth of the Bahamas — and the largest city on New Providence, one of its smaller islands. In fact, more than half of the Bahamas’ 300,000+ residents live on New Providence. Famous Cable Beach and Paradise Island are but a stone’s throw from downtown Nassau.

A city with a vibrant swashbuckling pirate past, Nassau offers tropical tree-lined streets filled with horse-drawn surreys ruled by policemen in white starched jackets and colorful pith helmets; soft-sanded beaches for kicking back and catching ocean breezes; lavish Vegas-type casinos with attractions to match; dozens of obscenely good restaurants; and enough duty-free shopping stops to please even the most jaded of fashionistas.

What to Do

• Head over to the man-made island of Arawak Cay (known to the locals as “Fish Fry”), a local beach dusted with pastel-colored shacks, incredibly fresh conch from vendors cracking the mollusks right before your eyes, fried fish and grits, lime-marinated conch and plenty of coconut milk laced with gin. Very popular, especially with the locals, and very crowded, especially on weekend evenings from 5 p.m. until midnight. It’s on the harbor, across from Fort Charlotte.

• Pink flamingos, honey bears and peacocks, oh my! You’ll find all this and more at Ardastra Gardens. Wait till you see the flamingos parade in drill formation (10:30 a.m, 2:10 p.m. and 4:10 p.m.).

• If you’re not staying at the showy 34-acre Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island, you can still check it out by purchasing a hard-to-come-by day pass (these are offered on a first-come, first-served basis at the resort). The pass gets you access to most of the must-see sights at the resort, such as the Dig, the marine habitats and the beach. What you won’t get is the fun stuff around the pools and waterslides. An alternative to purchasing the pass is to stay at the nearby Comfort Suites Paradise Island, where guests have full access to most Atlantis facilities.

• The number one photo op on the island is the balcony of 18th-century Balcony House, which also happens to be Nassau’s oldest wooden structure. Step inside this island landmark to see the mahogany staircase said to have been salvaged from a shipwreck in the mid-1800′s.

• For dolphin encounters of the bottlenose kind and seven stunning beaches, head for Blue Lagoon Island (a.k.a. Salt Cay). If it looks a bit familiar, you probably saw it in the film Splash (the beach scenes were filmed here). There are plenty of water sports to try and hammocks to idle in, but for all things dolphin, make sure you plan ahead with Dolphin Encounters. You’ll find plenty of amenities such as showers and changing rooms too. Catch the ferry from the cruise terminal.

• One of the most popular cultural stops on the island is the 18th-century Fort Charlotte. It’s fun to roam the dungeons and underground passageways and see the waterless moat — but some say the amazing views of the harbor from the ramparts is the real don’t-miss here. Two other forts worth checking out are Fort Fincastle (overlooking the town from Bennet’s Hill) and Fort Montagu (on East Bay Street).

• For those who love British pomp and circumstance, see the changing of the guard at the Government House every other Saturday from 10 a.m. to noon, accompanied by the music of the Royal Bahamas Police Force Band. The official residence of the governor-general of the Bahamas since 1801, this bubble-gum-pink mansion is an excellent example of Bahamian-British and American Colonial architecture.

• Kids love the Pirates of Nassau, a rather new, interactive museum filled with pirate stuff. They can walk through a 75-foot, three-masted pirate ship, too.

• We dare you to take a royal climb up the 66 steps of the Queen’s Staircase, which was carved out of calcareous, a coral-based sandstone at the end of the 18th century. The stupendous view is the prize for such athleticism.

• Hop aboard the Seaworld Explorer for a 90-minute submarine tour. Think underwater observatory, as you descend five feet below the water to observe the “sea gardens” through large glass windows. Reservations recommended (they can be arranged directly with the company or through your hotel or cruise ship).

The Cloisters — it’s right in front of the Ocean Club — is a 12th-century cloister, built in France by Augustinian monks and reassembled here stone by stone. Huntington Hartford, the A & P grocery heir, purchased the cloister from the estate of William Randolph Hearst at Sam Simeon in California. This is one of only four cloisters that have ever been removed stone by stone from France.

• Under the heading of Mardi Gras fun, check out the museum dedicated to the flashy Junkanoo Festival (a middle-of-the-night event the days after Christmas and New Year’s Day) at the Junkanoo Expo at the Prince George Wharf. It’s a chance to see the humongous costumes and floats.

• Don’t forget to spend a day or two enjoying Nassau’s beaches. Some say the most beautiful one here is Cabbage Beach, on the north shore. Another good choice is Cable Beach, with all the usual beach amenities and dazzling beachfront resorts along baby-powder-soft sand. For great snorkeling, try Love Beach near Gambier Village, about 12 miles west of downtown Nassau. If you’re looking for a little more seclusion, Caves Beach in Rock Point (close to the airport turnoff on Blake Road) is a good out-of-the-way choice.

Where to Eat
Nassau’s dining scene offers everything from upscale restaurants serving fine European cuisine to casual beach bars where you can nibble on fried conch fritters as you look out over the sea. Seafood abounds here, particularly conch, rock lobster and boiled fish stew. And be sure to try Kalik, “the beer of the Bahamas,” which is brewed at Nassau’s Commonwealth Brewery.

• The food at Graycliff is great, they have more than 250,000 bottles of wine (worth millions of dollars) and they make their own cigars. What’s not to love? We say go all out and order the Perigord goose liver with black truffles! Dinner reservations are required.

• Everyone loves Cafe Matisse for its excellent Italian food. The spinach gnocchi topped off with gorgonzola cheese and a walnut sauce is amazing. Reservations recommended.

• The oceanfront restaurant at the Compass Point Beach Resort offers West Indian dishes like Bahamian cracked conch and roasted chicken with fried plantains. We love the ultra-colorful dining room and the beautiful sea views.

• Think T.G.I. Friday’s … Caribbean style. At Anthony’s Caribbean Grill, you’ll find gourmet-type pizzas topped with jerk chicken, excellent ribs doused in an awesome barbecue sauce and warm-weather cocktails bigger than a house. It’s located in the Paradise Island Shopping Center.

• Consider Crocodile’s Waterfront Bar & Grill on East Bay Street if you’re looking for funky-casual waterside dining under thatched tiki huts — along with island drinks galore. The Bahamian-style fried chicken is excellent.

Where to Stay
Nassau is home to one of the world’s most famous hotels: the sprawling Atlantis mega-resort, with its nearly overwhelming wealth of activities and entertainment options. But for travelers more interested in peace and quiet than casinos and water parks, New Providence Island also offers charming guesthouses and serene beachfront cottages in a variety of price ranges. Winter is the busy season here, and rates rise accordingly.

• There’s so much to do at Atlantis — the biggest, splashiest mega-resort in the Bahamas — that you may be hard-pressed to tear yourself away. Kids will love Aquaventure, a 141-acre water park, and the Marine Habitat, which is home to a number of animal exhibits (including Dolphin Cay, where you can swim with dolphins and sea lions). For adults, there are numerous bars and lounges, a theater, a comedy club, an adults-only pool and the Caribbean’s largest casino. With nearly 3,000 rooms and suites in six different parts of the resort, there are accommodations to fit many interests and price points (though this is not the place for budget travelers).

• If the Atlantis is a little too over the top for your tastes, you’ll find peaceful, beautiful beaches and balmy sea breezes at the Compass Point Beach Resort. These luxurious, brightly colored cabanas and cottages are located right on the Cable Beach and offer amenities like flat-screen TV’s, refrigerators, microwaves, and DVD and CD players.

• Dating back to the 1920′s, the elegant British Colonial Hilton is situated in Nassau’s city center, making it a convenient option for business travelers or for those who are looking for proximity to shopping, dining and the cruise port. There is a private beach here, but it’s not the island’s best; those strictly looking for a beach getaway might be happier at one of the Cable Beach or Paradise Island properties.

• For budget travelers who aren’t looking for a resort experience, Orange Hill Beach Inn is a laidback, affordable option. Studio rooms are the least expensive; for a splurge, rent out the private cottage (which has a lovely ocean view).

• Perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean, A Stone’s Throw Away is a charming B&B escape from the busier parts of Nassau. Travelers looking to unwind can enjoy the views from the generous wraparound porch or relax by a pool surrounded by lush gardens.

Where to Shop
Nassau is one of the Caribbean’s premier duty-free shopping destinations, with visitors flocking to the shops of Bay Street to seek out deals on jewelry, crystal, fragrances and other upscale items. Keep in mind that all duty-free goods are not necessarily good deals; if you have a particular item in mind for purchase, be sure to research prices at home before your trip to make sure the “deals” you see in Nassau really will save you money. If you’re looking for more traditional souvenirs of your trip, visit one of Nassau’s street markets to find local handcrafts and artwork.

• The Straw Market is perhaps Nassau’s most popular attraction. You’ll still find all things straw and artwork made by locals, including shopping bags, handbags, hats and wonderful dolls — though you’ll also see plenty of cheapie sunglasses, tacky trinkets and knock-off purses. Those who are willing to browse — and barter — may come up with some great finds.

• Just near the Straw Market is Bay Street, where you’ll find tonier shops like Gucci as well as a variety of upscale duty-free goods. This area is well frequented by the island’s many cruise ship passengers.

• Also nearby are the dozens of shops inside the Nassau International Bazaar at Woodes Rogers Walk and Charlotte Street. Designed to look like a small European town, complete with cobblestone streets, the bazaar offers goods from all around the world.

• The conch vendors are just part of the scene at Potters Cay, a Bahamian marketplace beneath Paradise Island Bridge. Here, you’ll find plenty of vendors selling locals goods to both the locals and tourists.

Reprinted with permission of The Independent Traveler, Inc.

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